A unit painted by Adam, step by step
1st stage, white undercoat for these ones and the transfers attached.
Adam used the following paints -
Talin Flesh - Citadell foundation
Blood red - GW
Old Gold - vallejo 173
Chainmail - GW
Catham Brown - Citadell foundation
Bleached Bone - GW
He blocked in the main colours covering the rear of the shield, helmets that were to be bronze straps, manica, pteruges, bracae, scarf and sword raised bits with a watered mix of the Caltham brown. He then dry brushed the helmets with the old gold.
The shield boss gets chainmail and the rim caltham brown then gold.
The next stage will add the details and washes.
Some have commented that he put the transfers and shields on very early, he likes to hold the figure when painting the shield and vice versa, I paint the figure add the shield and then the shield detail. It comes down to what you prefer.
Washes - Plate armour,Badab Black
Bronze armour, Ogryn Flesh
I've decided this should be a hard bitten veteran unit. This can best be reflected by giving the armour a well weathered look. Normally I would use a black undercoat and simply drybrush with Games Workshop Chainmail to get the desired effect, only using a 'wash' to cool down any excessive drybrushing. With so much plate armour I decided this time to have a go with a mixture of washes and dry brushing to see if I could get a better effect. What I'm looking for is a dull effect with highlights only of details rather than the usual highly polished medieval plate armour effect.
All the 'iron' armour, helmets etc. were first given a wash of Badab black using a size 0 brush, (don't forget the grieves.) Next with a smaller size 000 brush go over any detail on the armour, hinges, lines between shoulder plates and belt etc. Don't go over the shoulder plates themselves unless missed first time around or you want a very dark armour. I thought this would be appropriate time to go over recesses again such as armpits, neck etc. for extra shading. Next, using same 000 brush and Badab Black trace around edge of shield rim wiping any surplus wash from transfer itself. Give shield boss a second wash and trace around it to give a similar black outline to the shield rim metal work.
Next, use Ogryn Flesh as a first wash for the copper alloy armour (including helmets). Other washes will follow for the copper alloy so don't put on a second wash.
I've split the washes stage into easy to follow steps but it's fairly obvious it would have been quicker to do all the washes, flesh and clothing at one go to speed the process up. As I'm still a bit unfamiliar with this process I'll leave it there for now. Next time up will be dry brushing the armour and applying the rest of the washes.
The Lorica segmentata and iron helmets were lightly dry brushed with Chainmail. The effect I wanted was of armour that had not been polished for some time so I only dry brushed once.
Next, Devlan Mud was applied behind the shield, over the entire face of the shield lightly, the bronze helmets, tunic, trousers and boots as a wash.
At this stage I decided to add and paint the remainder of the pila having first shortened them by about 4-5mm and prepare the shields for the standard bearers and musician.
I've finished off by touching up any over painted areas. This leaves only the clothing highlights, flesh detail and finishing the shields for next time.
All the pilums have been super glued in place and the shafts painted Desert Sand and the metalwork Chainmail. The shields for the standard bearers and musician are painted next.
The bear pelts have been painted Desert Sand. Everything is ready for washes. Army Painter fans can now just 'dip' !
Pilum metalwork is given a wash of Bedab Black. Flesh is given two coats of Ogryn Flesh. Red tunics and pilum shafts washed with Devlan mud. All scabbards were painted dark brown/almost black and the sword handle/pommel bleached bone. The complete sword assembly was then given a wash of Bedab Black using this ti give the sword a black outline as well. I then ran a little Bedab Black down each side of the face next to the helmet cheek pieces for some additional definition of the face.
All ready for the next stage, weather permitting, the highlights!
All paints are GW.