28mm Wargame Figures
I clean the figures glue them to a temporary base and then spray with matt black car spray. The first paint applied is a light flesh.
Next is a quick application of white on all the bits that will be white when finished. I try to get a good coverage on the panels as this saves work later.
Next is a light/mid brown, depends on taste, I prefer this shade as it shows better once the wash has been applied. I also slap it on around the greave straps, you will see why next.
I then add the gold to the sword bits, helmets and the greaves. On the matter of greaves, I just hate having to paint on the straps so found it much quicker and easier to paint them first then just run the gold between them.
Red next, a dull rich red that I will highlight later. Again this is relatively quickly applied as I will be touching the white up later. Red used is a Citadel foundation mechrite red and I highlight with GW Blood Red.
I have brushed the feathers with GW Badab Black wash and allowed to dry before quickly touching up the white panels. This gives me the chance to correct any over painting with the red. The flesh has also received a dose of GW Ogryn Flesh. The brown straps and sandals also got some Devlan Mud wash.
I decided to use a pale grey/blue for the tunics, a slightly different tone to the all white of the armour.
Finished ready for the shields and basing. I may do a short demo on the shield method I use. This is a gaming unit not a display one. I found painting in groups of 8 much nicer than 16s. The last 8 took about 3 hours from the black to what you see here.
Finished ready for the shields and basing. I may do a short demo on the shield method I use. This is a gaming unit not a display one. I found painting in groups of 8 much nicer than 16s. The last 8 took about 3 hours from the black to what you see here.
Applying LBMS transfers
1. Spray the rear of the shield with matt black
2. Flip the shields over and give them a good coat of matt white
3. The transfers
4. I mark grid lines on th rear of the sheet to locate the centre of each transfer.
5. I have cut out the profile of the shield in some cardboard and then placed in on top of another. I then marked the central lines to locate the transfers.
6. Place shield into the recess ensuring that the handles are located in the small grooves
7. Apply the transfer lightly to make sure it is in the centre and that it is the correct way up and not 90 degree out of line
8. Transfers can be pressed down and then dampened (I lick them).
2. Flip the shields over and give them a good coat of matt white
3. The transfers
4. I mark grid lines on th rear of the sheet to locate the centre of each transfer.
5. I have cut out the profile of the shield in some cardboard and then placed in on top of another. I then marked the central lines to locate the transfers.
6. Place shield into the recess ensuring that the handles are located in the small grooves
7. Apply the transfer lightly to make sure it is in the centre and that it is the correct way up and not 90 degree out of line
8. Transfers can be pressed down and then dampened (I lick them).
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